From Mines to Masterpiece
In August 2025, funded by the Tavolozza Foundation, Jonah X travelled to the wild mountains of Badakhshan, Afghanistan, location of the Sar – e Sang lapis mines.
From Kabul it was a three day drive up into the mountains of Badakhshan. The passes were around 4000m. The air was thin and the colours intense.
This is Hayder who led the expedition.
We’d rise early and set off after dawn prayers.
Badakhshan is one of the most remote areas of Afghanistan but also the most welcoming.
This is a Tugay forest. They survive in the arid, high altitudes from floods rather than rainwater. They are rich ecosystems hugging the rivers. Badakhshan has incredible wildlife, from Marco Polo Sheep to Snow Leopards.
This is Kuh-e Bandaka, one of the highest peaks in Afghanistan. Behind it is the valley with the Lapis mines.
Negotiations took hours over a lot of food. In Badakhshan the main danger to a traveller is being overfed.
A guard, Esmatullah, with the mine above. For 9000 years humans have visited this tiny cleft in the mountain to hunt for the finest azure in the world. It has been found in the royal tombs of Sumeria and Egypt. It has been wielded by Leonardo and Michelangelo and Giotto.
This is Haji Abdul Qadir, a Taliban commander, who protects the mine, and his soldiers. He was a proud local man and the epitome of Badakhshan hospitality.
One of the mine guards, the story of Lapis in world culture is a source of deep pride.
We travelled in September when the crops were being harvested before the long winter ahead.
Two travelling salesmen. They’d barter tea, soap, even bubblegum, for the crops of the villages they’d pass through.
A 30kg block on ‘junduk’ grade (±grade 2) lapislazuli from Sar-e-Sang mine, in Badakhshan.
“The deeper the blue becomes, the more strongly it calls man towards the infinite, awakening in him a desire for the pure and, finally, for the supernatural …” Kandinsky.
Jonah X’s first batch of True Blue ultramarine paint for Project Blue.
Photo: Simon Buxton